Cup feed sewing machines



June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA 2,751,866

CUP FEED SEWING MACHINES Filed March 23, 1953 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA CUP FEED szwmc MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 23, 1953 QQ g NS m QE June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA cup FEED SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed March 23, 1953 mm mm mm June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA CUP FEED SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed March 23,

Q? I HT Wm wmw RQ June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA 2,751,356

CUP FEED SEWING MACHINES Filed March 23, 1953 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 June 26, 1956 A, M. SCHWEDA CUP FEED SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed March 23, 1953 June 26, 1956 A. M. SCHWEDA CUP FEED SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed March 23, 1953 .mSw mSw United States CUP FEED SEWING MACHENES This invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to machines of the cup feed type, such as are commonly used in the seaming of hosiery. It is adapted to produce an improved stocking construction.

In the production of hosiery of the so called full fashioned type, in which a stocking is formed from a single blank by providing a continuous seam extending from the toe along the bottom of the foot portion, around the heel and then up the full length of the leg portion it has been customary to provide a seam having the same stitch length throughout. In accordance with the illvention, however, the stitch length of the seam is varied at difierent points to meet the differing requirements most effectively. Thus, in seaming the relatively heavy, reinforced foot portion, which will receive the hardest wear and greatest transverse strain in use, a stocking produced in accordance with the invention employes a relatively short stitch length so as to provide more stitches to the inch than are required for or normally wanted in the leg portion. At the same time it is made to include a slightly greater portion of the edges of the fabric in the seam along the foot portion than in the seam extending along the leg portion. This provides additional strength in the foot portion while leaving the leg portion with its customary non-bulky appearance of the seam. Moreover, the additional yarn required for a seam with shorter stitches is thus employed only in the regions where it is desired to impart strength to the stocking.

It has been an important object of the present invention to provide a cup feed sewing machine of such construction as to make possible the rapid, large scale production of hosiery having a continuous seam, of overedge construction, which varies in stitch length in accordance with the particular requirements at various points.

Another object has been to provide a machine of the character indicated with means for readily varying the depth of the scam, in relation to the free edges being joined, as the seam is being formed.

An important feature of the invention is the provision of means, in a cup feed sewing machine, for effecting a quick change in the length of the stitches being formed, such means being under foot or knee control and capable of functioning to effect the desired change in the course of stitch formation. More specifically, the means contemplated serves to change the extent of movement of the feed cups upon successive cycles of operation of the machine. A corresponding change may be made in the feeding action of auxiliary or puller feed means.

Another feature of the invention is the provision of means, operable concomitantly with the above mentioned means, for varying the depth of the overedge seam in the course of operation of the machine. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, this second means comprises an arrangement operated in response to the same foot or knee control for lifting or lowering a work guiding and uncurling device to vary the extent to which the edges of the work will be presented above the plane of the needle, or above the tops of the feed cups.

" atcnt O "ice A further important feature of the invention is the provision of means for varying the position of the stitch finger about which the overedge stitches are formed, in the course of operation of the machine. This feature is coordinated with the first two features so that simultaneously with a change in the stitch length and the depth of the seam, the elevation of the stitch finger in relation to the feed cups is changed. Thus, as the work guiding and uncurling device is raised to provide a seam of greater depth, the stitch finger is simultaneously elevated slightly to maintain it in substantially the same relation to the free edges of the work being seamed.

A still further feature is the provision of quick change feed mechanism of the character indicated, having the parts thereof which are subjected to maximum wear enclosed with a lubricant retaining housing in which a lubri cant mist is constantly maintained during operation 0 the machine.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will appear from the detailed description of an illustrative form of the same which will now be given in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is an elevational view of a sewing unit comprising a pedestal support carrying a sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevational view of a portion of the work guiding and feeding devices of the machine illustrating the relationship thereto of a stocking being stitched on the machine;

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the sewing machine with a top cover member removed;

Fig. 4 is a side elevational view of the upper portion of the sewing machine;

Fig. 5 is a view partially in side elevation and partially in longitudinal section through the machine;

Fig. 6 is an exploded perspective view of a ball stud assembly embodied in the machine;

Fig. 7 is a view partially in front elevation and par,- tially in transverse section through the machine;

Fig. 8 is an elevational view of a part of the upper portion of the machine, illustrating particularly the mounting of the uncurler guide;

Fig. 9 is a detail view in horizontal section illustrating a portion of the feed cups and parts associated therewith;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a portion of the machine illustrating the feed cups, the uncurler guide and the stitch forming mechanism;

Fig. 11 is a perspective view of a stitch finger support ing bracket provided in the machine;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of the stitch finger and associated parts, a spring element being shown separated from the other parts;

Fig. 13 is a detail view, in horizontal section illustrating puller devices which may be employed in association with the feed cups; 7

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 13 showing a different puller device which may be employed in conjunction with the feed cups.

The invention has been illustrated as applied to a cup feed sewing machine of the general character shown in the patent to Hacklander, No. 2,043,748, granted June 9, 1936 and in the patent to Rubel, No. 2,133,229, granted October 11, 1938. As shown in the Hacklander patent, the machine may be adapted to form an overedge stitch having two threads, or as shown in the Rubel patent 'it may be adapted to form a three thread overedge stitch.

Referring now particularly to Fig. l, the sewing machine 10 may be mounted on a table top 11 carried by a pedestal support 12 having a floor engaging base member 13. An electric transmitter 14 is secured to the under surface of the table top. This transmitter may suitably be of the type disclosed in the patent to Peets et al.

No, 2,004,055, granted June 4, 1935. It embodies an electric motor, a clutch and a driven pulley which is connected by a belt with a combined handwheel and pulley 17 of the'seWing machine. In Fig. 1 the'belt is illustrated as being'connected with a pulley similar to the one'shown but disposed at the'opposite side of the-sewing' machine. As will be explained, the two pulleys are carried'by the main drive shaft of the machine. A treadle 18 mounted in the base of the pedestalfsupport connected by a rod 19 with an arm 14a of the transmitterunit, which serves to govern the engagement and disengagement of the clutch of this unit. Another treadle 20'mounted in the base of the pedestal support'is connected by a cable 21 with an arm 22 carried by a shaft (not shown) which. is rockably mounted on the underside of the table top 11. ,As will be explained later, suitable connections are provided from the arm 22 to means for causing an outward swinging movement of one of the feed cups to facilitate the introduction of new work. An arm 23 which extends laterally from the pedestal support carries a U-shaped bracket 24' in which isjournaled arock shaft 25. The latter has suitably secured thereto a knee press member 26 arranged for operation by the knee of the operator. Also secured to the shaft is an arm 27 having a laterally extending pin 28 which is connected by a chain 29, or other suitable connection, with a part of the sewing machine to be controlled. As will be explained hereinafter, the knee press has been illustrated as suitably connected with the devices for adjusting the stitch length of the sewing machine in the course of its operation and for performing other related functions.

'As best shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6, sewing machine 10 is provided with a frame having a vertical standard 30 adapted to be supported from the table top 11. An overhanging arm or portion 31 of the frame projects outwardly beyond the edge of the table 11 (Fig. 1) to provide for free movement of the work. A removable cover 32 extends over the top of the standard and arm 31. When the cover is applied to the frame a lubricant-tight enclosure is provided for the main operating parts of the machine. This lubricant enclosure extends from a horizontal partition 33 in the standard over to the free end of the arm 31. A main drive shaft 34 is journaled in the vertical standard and extends at each end through the side walls of the frame. The combined handwheel and-pulley members 17 are secured to the shaft 34 at the projecting ends thereof. All of the operating parts of the machine are driven from the shaft 34,

The stitch forming devices include a reciprocatory needle bar .35 carrying a needle 35a. Needle bar 35 is journaled for reciprocation horizontally in a bearing sleeve 36 extending through the forward wall of the frame. Within the enclosed housing of the frame the needle bar 35 is suitably connected'for reciprocation by the shaft 34. The connections for this'purpose may be similar to those disclosed in the above mentioned Hacklander and Rubel patents. It comprises a link, or pitman, having a strap 37,'Fig. 7, which surrounds a crank portion of the shaft 34. Cooperating with the needle in stitch formation is an overedge looper 38 carried by a rod 39 mounted for both longitudinal reciprocation and oscillation about its axis. It is supported by bearing sleeve 40 extending downwardly at an appropriate angle through the forward wall of the frame. Within the enclosed housing there is mounted on the rod 39 a block 41 having a laterally extending stud 41:: which is privotally engaged by one end of a link 42 and has its other end forked to straddle the upper end of an arm 43. The link 42 and arm 43 are pivotally connected by a pin 44. Ann 43 is provided with a supporting sleeve or elongated hub 45 which also carries a downwardly extending arm 46. A pin 47 at the lower end of this arm is connected by a pitman48with another crank portion of the shaft 34. The arrangement is such that upon rotation of the shaft 34, the block 41 is shifted longitudinally of the axis of the rod 39. It is free to rock upon the rod 39 but is restrained against longitudinal movement along the rod by means of a collar 49 clamped to the rod on one side of the block and a collar 50 clamped to the rod on the opposite side of the block. Accordingly the rod 39 will partake of the bodily movement of the block 41. Oscillatory movements are imparted to the rod through the collar 50 which is provided with a laterally extending ball pin 51 received by a strap 52 at the upper end of a pitman 53. A strap 54 at the lower end of this pitman surrounds an eccentric mounted on the shaft 34.

A second looper 55 cooperates with the needle and with the looper 38 in forming overedge stitches. Looper 55 is secured by a collar 56 to the outer end of a rod 57 which is journaled for oscillation in a sleeve 58 extending downwardly at a suitable angle through the forward wall of the housing. the rod is prevented by a collar 59 secured to the latter at the outer end of the bearing sleeve 58 and by a block 60'secured to the rod within the housing adjacent the upper end of the bearing sleeve 58. Block 60 has a laterally extending ball pin 61 which is received by a strap 62 at the upper end of a pitman having a strap 63 at its lower end surrounding a crank or an eccentric secured to the shaft 34. It will be understood that oscil-' latory movements are imparted to the rod 57 through these connections. The timing of the operation of the three stitch forming elements, i. ev needle 35a and loopers' 38 and 55 is such as 'to form an appropriate'ove'red'ge stitch. if desired, the looper 55 may be replaced by a non-thread carrying spreader such as shown in the above mentioned Hacklander patent. A two-thread overedge stitch willthen be formed.

For supporting and advancing the work past the stitchforming point, a pair of feed cups 64 and 65 is provided. These cups are arranged for rotation about vertical axes and are so disposed that the plane containing their axes is at an angle to the vertical plane containing the needle. The feed cup 64 is secured to the lower end of a shaft 66 journaled in a bearing sleeve 67 extending downwardly from the overhanging arm 31. Adjacent its upper end, within the enclosed housing portion of the overhanging arm, there is mounted on the shaft 66 a one-way clutch unit 68 which may be suitably of the type disclosed in the patent to Schoij, No. 2,494,006, granted January 10, 1950. For details as to the construction and operation of the unit, reference may be had to said patent. 'Briefly, it comprises a main housing member 69 which is secured to the shaft 66. Above this housing is a plate?!) oscillatably mounted on the shaft and arranged to be oscillated thereon. For this purpose the plate 70 has an outwardly and downwardly extending projection 71, Fig. 3, which carries,

a ball pin 72 received by a strap '73 on a connecting rod 74, the operation of which will be described shortly. Beneath the housing 69 is a plate 75 secured in any suitable manner to the frame of the machine; The plates 70'and 75 have connected therewith clutch blocks of the type disclosed in said Schoij patent, these being disposed in reverse relation and cooperating with the housing 69 through suitable spring urged rollers. The arrangement is such that on one direction of movement of the plate 70, the latter will impart a corresponding angular movement to the housing 69 and hence the shaft 66, whereas on the opposite direction of movement of the plate 76 the housing will be retained against reverse angular movement by the action of the clutch block and rollers associated with plate 75. 7

At its opposite end, the connecting rod 74' is provided with a strap 76 which cooperates with a ball stud 77 (Fig. 6) having formed integrally therewith a portion 78 with two flat faces arranged to slide in a slot 79 formed in an arm 80 of arock member mounted on-a fixed shaft 81, which also supports the hub 45. A downwardly extending Longitudinal movement of arm 82 of the rock member carries a ball pin which cooperates with a strap 83 of a pitman 84, the opposite end of which has a strap 85 surrounding an eccentric 86 on the shaft 34 (Fig. The arrangement is such that upon each revolution of the shaft 34, the rock member 80, 82 will be rocked to impart a corresponding movement to the ball stud 77 and connecting rod 74. The extent of movement of these parts will depend on the position of the ball stud in relation to the slot 79. This position is determined by a link 87 which at its lower end straddles a collar 37a mounted on a cylindrical portion 88 of the ball stud. A flange 89 formed integrally with the ball stud 77 and a washer 90 are disposed at opposite faces of the arm 80 for sliding movement along the same. A nut 91 cooperating with a screw threaded stem 92 on the ball stud serves to hold the parts in assembled relation. Link 87 is pivotally mounted on a screw stud 93 carried by an arm 94 extending rearwardly from a rock shaft 95 journaled in the frame of the machine. This rock shaft extends completely across the machine, as best shown in Figs. 3 and 7, and projects outwardly beyond the walls of the frame. At the left end of the rock shaft 95, Fig. 7, there is secured an arm 96 (see also Fig. 4), having a laterally extending projection 97 which is apertured to receive the upper end of the chain 29 connected with the knee press control. Arm 96 is urged in a clockwise direction, Fig. 4, by a spring pressed plunger 98 slidable in a cylinder 99 carried by the machine frame. A spring 1190 within the cylinder urges the plunger upwardly. The tension of the spring may be varied by adjusting a screw cap 191 at the lower end of the cylinder. Normally, the spring pressed plunger will urge the arm 96 into engagement with the lower end of an adjustable stop screw 102 carried by the frame. This stud screw has a knurled head 103 by which it may be turned to adjust the position of the lower end of the screw. Preferably a spring clip or washer 104 is provided to limit the upward movement of the screw to correspond with the maximum stitch length to be produced by the machine. A spring urged ball 105 is pressed by a spring 106 into a longitudinally extending groove provided in the face of the screw 102. A screw plug 107 serves to retain the spring 106 in its socket.

Arm 96 carries an index marking 108 which, in conjunctioin with indicia 109 on a plate secured to the frame of the machine, serves to indicate the stitch length corresponding with any position of the arm 96. This arrangement may suitably be such as to provide stitch lengths varying from 14 to 24 per inch. In the seaming of hosiery, the

setting of the screw 162 may be such as to provide a stitch length of 16 to the inch when the arm 96 is held against the lower end of the stop screw. On the other hand, in forming the toe, sole, and heel portions of the stocking, a stitch length of 22 to the inch may suitably be provided. To predetermine this shorter stitch length an adjustable stop screw 110 is provided beneath the arm 96 and arranged to engage the under surface of the latter as it is rocked downwardly by the operation of the knee press. Screw 114} is provided with a knurled head 111 to facilitate its adjustment, and it may be provided with a spring washer 112 to limit the extent of its downward adjustment. A spring urged detent ball 113, similar to the ball 105 may be arranged to cooperate with a longitudinally extending groove in the face of the screw 110 to retain it in any set position. One or more of such grooves may be provided in the outer surface of the screw.

It will be seen from the foregoing that means are provided for varying the stitch length in the course of forming a seam. The knee press may be operated to change the position of the arm 96, and hence the ball stud 77, while the machine is being operated to form a seam. In the production of a stocking from a conventional full fashioned hosiery blank, the knee press may be operated at the commencement of the seaming operation at the toe of the blank and it may be held pressed to provide a short stitch length during the formation of the seam from the toe to and around the heel up to the end of the reinforcement of the heel. When this point is reached, the knee press may be released and the machine automatically restored to its normal condition of forming longer stitches.

The foregoing serves to explain merely the operation of the feed cup 64. Feed cup is driven at the same speed, and for this purpose a gear 114 is provided at the upper end of the shaft 66 and meshes with a gear 115 at the upper end of a shaft 116. The latter is journaled in a suitable bearing within the overhanging arm and carries at its lower end one part of a universal coupling 117. Another part of this coupling is connected with the upper end of a shaft 118, Fig. 8, journaled in a bearing sleeve 119. Feed cup 65 is secured to the lower end of the shaft 118. The bearing sleeve 119 is carried by a rock member 120 mounted for rocking movement with a rock shaft 121 carried by the overhanging arm. Adjacent the outer end of this rock shaft is mounted a bell crank member 122 having a rearwardly extending portion 123 which may be forked to straddle a groove formed in a rod 124 adjacent its upper end. If desired, the extension 123 may instead be provided with an opening through which the rod 124 extends, and this rod may be provided with an enlarged head adapted to cooperate with the upper face of extension 123. A spring 125 surrounding rod 124 acts at one end against the under face of extension 123 and at its other end against the top of a C-member 126 connected with a screw threaded sleeve 127. The latter may be adjusted vertically by turning its knurled head 128 to vary the tension of the spring 125. A lock nut 129 serves to retain the sleeve in adjusted position. Between the arms of the G-frame there is mounted on the rod 124 a spring 130 which acts at its upper end against a collar 131 secured to rod 124. The arrangement is such that spring 130 normally retains the head of the rod 124 spaced slightly from the upper face of extension 123. Spring 125 urges the bell crank member 122 in a clockwise direction, Fig. 5, and thereby urges the feed cup 65 toward the feed cup 64. Feed cup 65 may, however, be shifted outwardly away from feed cup 64 by pulling the rod 124 downwardly, thereby rocking member 122 and shaft 121 slightly in a counterclockwise direction. For this purpose the lower end of the rod 124 is provided with an eyelet 132 which may suitably be connected with a lever secured to the rock shaft carrying the arm 22. Thus the outward movement of feed cup 65 may be brought about by depressing the treadle 20. To limit the rocking movement of shaft 121 in either direction, there is preferably provided a pair of eccentric members 133 and 134 secured, respectively, to screw studs 135 and 136. These co-act with an upward extension 137 on member 122 for the purpose indicated.

Referring now particularly to Fig. 8, there is shown the means for lifting the uncurled guide to raise the work in relation to the feed cups whenever it is desired, in the course of forming a seam, to provide a seam of greater depth than that for which the machine is normally set. The uncurler guide is designated generally at 140, and comprises a main support 141 carried by a hub 142 secured to a sleeve 143. The latter is retained for turning within a sleeve 144. Cooperating with the main support of the uncurler is a pair of clamping members 145 and 146 pivoted on the support by means of pins 147 and 148, respectively. A spring 149 which passes through an opening in the support 141, and is seated in depressions in the upper ends of members 145 and 146, normally serves to rock these in a direction to engage their lower clamping portions with the outer faces of a blade 150 extending downwardly from the support member. It will be understood that the construction and arrangement is such that the edges of a hosiery blank or the like drawn through the guide by the action of the feed cups will have its edges uncurled 1? p 7 and flattened out so as to present the two edges to be seamed in fiatwi'se abutment as they reach the stitching zone. 'A guide pin7150a, carried by the blade 150 and extending into the openings in the clamping members I45 and 146, serves to determine the position of the upper edges of the work. Conventional means of the type disclosed in the patent to Hacklander, No. 2,131,007, granted September 20, 1938, may be provided for latch- 7 ing the uncurler in any of a plurality of positions. This means may serve to retain the uncurler in its operative position shown in Fig. 8, or in a loading position or in an elevated, inoperative position. Since the details of this latching mechanism form no part of the present invention, it is believed unnecessary to describe it further. An unlatching lever 152 secured to a shaft 153 journaled within the sleeve 143 serves to release the latch for move ment of the uncurler from one position to another.

The'uncurler is vsupported by a slide 154 having a clamp 155 at its lower end adapted to be clamped about the sleeve 144. Slide 154 is arranged for limited vertical movement between guides 156 and 157 secured to the outer face of the overhanging arm of the frame. A spring 158 seated in a pocket formed in the under face of the guide 157 has its lower end in engagement with a portion of the clamp 155 and urges the slide downwardly. The extent of downward movement of the slide is limited by a screw threaded cap 159 adjustably mounted upon a screw element 160 secured to the upper end of the slide 154. ,The bottom of the screw cap engages the upper surface of a finger 161 projecting from a block secured by screws 162 to a portion of the frame. A knurled head 163 provided on the cap enables turning of the latter for adjustment relative to the screw element. Upward movement of the slide 154 is limited by a nut 164 mounted on the screw element 160 beneath the finger 161. The extent of upward movement of the slide is determined by the distance between the under face of the finger and the top of the nut 164. This nut is retained in any position of adjustment by means of a spring urged ball 165 cooperating with a vertical or axial slot in the periphery of the nut.

Upward movement of the slide is effected by means of a lever 166 pivotally mounted upon the frame by means of a screw stud 167. One end of the lever is forked to embrace a pin 168 carried by the slide 154. At its opposite end the lever 166 is provided with a lateral extension having an aperture which slidably receives a rod 169. This carries a collar 170 adjacent its upper end beneath which a spring 171 surrounds the rod. Collar 170'is adjustable on the rod to vary the tension of the spring and is held in set position by a screw 170a. Spring 171 urges the rod upwardly and holds an enlarged head 172 at its lower end against the under face of an arm 173 extending rearwardly from a hub member 174 secured to the shaft 95. The arrangement is such that clockwise rocking of the shaft 95, through operation of the knee press in the manner explained, will cause the arm 173 to force the rod 169 downwardly at the same time that the arm 94 is eifecting a change in the stitch length. Downward movement of the rod 169 will cause the spring 171 to be compressed sufiiciently to overcome the action of spring 158 and further movement of the rod 'will then cause the lever 166 to be rocked to lift the slide 154 until the nut 164 engages the under face of finger 161. Continued movement of the arm 173 will simply compress the spring 171 further. it will be understood that when the spring 171 is not tensioned by the downward movement of the arm 173 it will not interfere with the action of spring 158 in urging the slide downwardly. Also it will be noted that the arm 94, which controls the stitch length, partakes of a greater movement than the lever 166 since only a slight movement of the slide 154 is desired. The maximum movement of this slide is on the order of about Turning now to Figs. 9 to 12 inclusive, there is shown 8 the novel means for supporting a stitch finger. This comprisesv an L-shaped bracket 175'secured to the frame of the machine by screws 176. To the under face of the bracket there'is secured a slide 177 havinga groove cooperating with a-rib 178 on the bracket. A screw,'notshown, may beprovided for retaining these parts in a desired relative position, the arrangement being such that the slide 177 may be adjusted in the direction of the rib. 178 to position the stitch finger in proper relation to the feed cups and stitch forming devices. A downward 'extension 179 of the slide is grooved'to receive a portion 131} of a support element 181. Relative adjustment of the portion 189- and the groove inthe extension 179 may be made and the parts may be clamped in adjusted position by ascrew 182. A notch 18?: is formed in the'perinhery of the support 181 to provide clearance for the needle in its reciprocation. Two openings 184 extending through the support 181 are arranged to slidably receive downwardly extending pins 185 and 186 carried by a stitch finger 187. The latter has a pointed projection 188 positioned along the line of feed of the work through the feed cups. Each of the pins-185 and 186 is provided with a slot 189 above the stitch finger 187 to receive. a spring tongue 19% arranged to urge the pins and the connected stitch finger downwardly. Spring element 190 has a portion 191 provided with an opening to receive a screw 193 adapted to fit into a screw threaded opening 192 in the support 181. Pin 185 is provided with an upward extension 194 having an elongated slot 195 arranged to receive a'tapered pin 196 carried by the uncurler guide 140. Pin 196 may suitably be simply an. extension of the pin 148. This arrangement is such that the spring 190 normally urges the stitch finger 137 downwardly against the support 181 and against an upward extension 197 of a plate 198' secured to the bearing sleeve of the outer feed cup. However, when the uncurler guide is lifted in the manner explained, the pin 196 will cooperate with the upper end of the slot 195 and lift the stitch finger a slight distance. This may be the same distance to which the uncurler guide is lifted or it may be slightly less, depending upon the relationship between the pin 196 and the upper end of the slot 195.

in Fig. 13 there is illustrated an arrangement for imparting a puller action to the work beyond the point at which thefeed cups serve to advance it at the stitch forming point. The arrangement illustrated is such as to apply a tension to the work along the line of feed from the uncurler guide through the feed cups. The puller mechanism comprises an idler roller 200 having its periphery serrated in the same manner as the periphery of the work engaging portion of the feed cup 64. The serrations of the roller mesh with those of the feed cup so that they are driven at the same peripheral speed. Meshing with the roller 200 is another serrated roller 291 which is adapted to engage the work. It is rotated by the roller 2111 at the same peripheral speed as the feed cup. Both rollers are carried by a bracket 262, the roller 260 being suspended from the latter by a screw stud 263 and the roller 201 being suspended by a screw stud 204. Bracket 202 is secured by screws or the like to an angle member 205 attached to the forward face of the vertical standard 30. Cooperating with the roller 2111 is a similar roller 2'96 rotatably mounted on a rod 207 by means of a screw stud 208. Rod 2137 is slidably mounted in a sleeve 209 carried by a bracket 210 secured by screws 211 to the plate 198 within the outer feed cup 65. Sleeve. 209 is screw threaded at its outer end to receive a cap 212. Within the housing thusprovided there is mounted a spring 213 which abuts at one end against the inner surface of the-cap and at the other end against the bottom of a recess 214 in the end of the rod 207. The spring 213 serves to urge the rod outwardly and forces the roller 206 into engagement with the roller 201 or the work which passes between these two rollers. A screw stud 215.projecting.radially from the rod 207' co operates with an elongated slot 216 in the sleeve 209 to prevent rotation of the rod. Also the left end of the slot 216 is brought into engagement with the screw stud 215 when the outer feed cup 65 is swung outwardly away from feed cup 64 in the manner explained. This serves to carry the roller 206 away from the roller 201 to facilitate removal of the work from between these rollers and, if desired, the introduction of the leading edge of a new piece of work. A guide arm 217 may be mounted on the lower end of the screw stud 208 beneath the roller 206. This guide arm extends toward the feed cup 65 and is provided with a curved surface which facilitates introduction of the leading edge of the work into the bite of the puller rollers 2G1 and 206.

A modified puller arrangement is shown in Fig. 14. This may suitably be of the character disclosed in the patent to Le Vesconte et al., No. 2,412,894, granted December 17, 1946. It comprises a curved arm 218 pivotally attached by means of a screw stud 219 to the plate 198 within the outer feed cup 65. A coiled spring 220, having one end engaged over the edge of plate 198 and the other end inserted in one of a series of holes 221 in the member 218, serves to rock the latter in a clockwise direction. Mounted on the arm 218 is a vertically disposed plate 222 having a laterally bent portion 223 which overlies the arm 218 and is secured to the latter by a screw 224. By the action of spring 220, the plate 222 is yieldingly urged against the periphery of the feed cup 65. The inner or forwardly extending portion of the plate 222 extends beneath the feed cup 64 and serves to direct the work toward the point of engagement of the plate with the feed cup 65. If desired, the outer end of the plate may carry a thread chain cutter in the manner disclosed in said Le Vesconte et al. patent.

While a preferred embodiment of the invention and several modifications thereof have been disclosed in considerable detail, it will be understood that various changes in the construction and arrangement of the several parts may be made without departing from the general principles and scope of the invention. Certain features of the invention may be employed with or without other of the features herein described.

What is claimed is:

1. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by the feed cups, means for imparting a step of movement to said feed cups upon each stitch forming cycle, said means including elements freely movable in relation to each other at all times to vary the length of said step of movement, means operable at will by the leg of the operator during operation of the machine for shifting said elements in relation to each other and thereby varying the extent of said step of movement of the feed cups, and spring means normally urging said elements into a predetermined relation.

2. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance tthe work to be seamed, stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by the feed cups, means for imparting a step of movement to said feed cups upon each stitch forming cycle, said means including a one-way clutch and elements connected therewith freely movable in relation to each other at all times to vary the extent of movement of said feed cups, means operable at will by the leg of the operator during operation of the machine for shifting said elements in relation to each other and thereby varying the extent of said step of movement of the feed cups, and spring means normally urging said elements into a predetermined relation, the relative shifting of said elements serving to vary the extent of operation of said one-way clutch upon each stitch forming cycle.

3. In a cup feed sewing machine a main operating shaft, a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, connections from said shaft for intermittently operating said feed cups, overedge stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by said feed cups, connections from said shaft for operating said stitch forming devices, means in said first mentioned connections comprising elements that are at all times freely shiftable in relation to each other for varying the extent of movement of said feed cups upon each intermittent operation thereof, means operable at will by the leg of the operator during operation of said shaft for shifting said elements relative to each other and thereby controlling said first mentioned connections to vary the extent of movement of said feed cups upon the intermittent operation thereof, and spring means normally urging said elements into a predetermined relation.

4. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by the feed cups, means for imparting a step of movement to said feed cups upon each stitch forming cycle, means for supporting and guiding the work in advance of said feed cups, means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, and means operable at will by the leg of the operator during operation of the machine and controlled wholly by the operator for varying the extent of said step of movement of the feed cups and for simultaneously varying the elevation of said work supporting and guiding means, said means operable at will comprising a common operating member and separate connections therefrom to said means for imparting movement to said feed cups and to said means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means.

5. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by the feed cups, means for imparting a step of movement to said feed cups upon each stitch forming cycle, means for supporting and guiding the work in advance of said feed cups, means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, and means operable at will during operation of the machine and controlled wholly by the operator for varying the extent of said step of movement of the feed cups and for simultaneously varying the elevation of said work supporting and guiding means, said mean operable at will comprising a common operating member and separate connections therefrom to said means for imparting movement to said feed cups and to said means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means, said connections from said member to said means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means being yieldable.

6. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by the feed cups, means for imparting a step of movement to said feed cups upon each stitch forming cycle, means for supporting and guiding the work in advance of said feed cups, means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, and means operable at will during operation of the machine and controlled wholly by the operator for varying the extent of said step of movement of the feed cups and for simultaneously varying the elevation of said work supporting and guiding means, said means operable at will comprising a common operating member and separate connections therefrom to said means for imparting movement to said feed cups and to said means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means, said connections from said member to said means for shifting said work supporting and guiding means being yieldable, and sep- 1'1 arately adjustable means for limiting the extent of movement of said member andof said means for supporting and guiding the; work;

7. In a cup'feed sewing machine a main operating shaft, a plurality of feed cupsarranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, connections from said shaft for intermittently operating said feed cups, overedge stitch forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by said feed'cups, connections from said shaft for operating said stitch forming devices, a stitch finger disposed'above said feed cups in the region of stitch formation and arranged to have the stitches formed about it, means supporting said stitch finger for movement toward'and away from the upper faces of said feed cups, means for supporting and guiding the work in advance of said feed cups, said work supporting and guiding means being movable to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups,-means in said first mentioned connections for varying the extent of movement of said feed cups upon each intermittent operation thereof, means operable at will during operation of said shaft and controlled wholly by the operator for controlling said means in said first mentioned connections to vary the extent of movement of said feed cups upon the intermittent operation thereof, and connections from said means op erable at will for simultaneously moving said stitch finger and said means for supporting and guiding the work to vary the elevation thereof in relation to the feed cups.

8. In a cup feed sewing machine a main operating shaft, a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, connections from said shaft for intermittently operating said feed cups, overedge stitch.

forming mechanism cooperating with the work as it is advanced by said feed cups, connections from said shaft for operating said stitch forming devices, a stitchfinger disposed above said feed cups in the region of stitch formation and arranged to have the stitches formed about it, means supporting said stitch finger for movement toward and away from the upper faces of said feed cups, means for supporting and guiding thework in advance of said feed cups, said work supporting and guiding means being movable to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, said stitch finger and said work supporting and guiding means being interconnected for movement in unison, means in said first mentioned connections for varying the extent of movement of said feed cups upon each intermittent operation thereof, means operable at will during operation of said shaft and controlled wholly by the operator for controlling said means in said first mentioned connections to vary the extent of movement of said feed cups upon the intermittent operation thereof, and connections from said means operable at will for simultaneously moving said stitch finger and said means for supporting and guiding the work to vary the elevation thereof in relation to the feed cups.

9. In a cup feed sewing machine aplurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region in which they support the work, means carrying said stitch finger and movable to vary its elevation in relation to the upper faces of said feed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over the edges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating said stitch forming means, and means for moving said carrying means to vary the elevation of said stitch finger in the course of operation of said stitch forming means.

10. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region'in which they support the work, means carrying saidstitch finger and movable to vary its elevation in-relation .tothe upper faces of said feed cups, yielding means normally urging said stitch finger carrying means towards the upper faces of thefeed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over theedges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating said stitch forming means, and means for lifting said stitch finger carrying means to vary the elevation of said stitch finger in the course of operation of said stitch forming means.

11. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region in which they support the work, said stitch finger being movable to vary its elevation in relation to the upper faces of said feed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over the edges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating said stitch forming means, and means operable ,byrthe operator at will for varying the elevation of said stitch finger in the course of operation of said stitch forming means.

12. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region in which they support the work, said stitch finger being movable to vary its elevation in relation to the upper faces of said feed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over the edges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating said stitch forming means, work supporting and guiding means arranged to grip the work in advance of said feed cups, a movable support for said work supporting and guiding means adapted to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, and means operable at will for simultaneously moving said stitch finger and the support for said work supporting and guiding means to vary the elevation thereot in relation to the feed cups in the course of operation of said stitch forming means.

13. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region in which they support the work, said stitch finger being movable to vary its elevation in relation to the upper faces of said feed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over the edges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating saidstitch forming means, work supporting and guiding means arranged to grip the work in advance of said feed cups, a movable support for said work supporting and guiding means adapted to vary the elevation thereof in relation to said feed cups, yielding means normally urging said stitch finger and said movable support to present the same at predetermined elevations in relation to the feed cups, and means operable at will for simultaneously moving said stitch finger and the support for said work supporting and guiding means to different predetermined elevations in relation to the feed cups in the course of operation of said stitch forming means.

14. In a cup feed sewing machine a plurality of feed cups arranged to support and advance the work to be seamed, means for turning said feed cups to advance the work, a stitch finger disposed adjacent the upper faces of said feed cups in the region in which they support the work, said stitch finger being movable to vary its elevation in relation to the upper faces of said feed cups, stitch forming means arranged to form overedge stitches around said stitch finger and over the edges of the work advanced by said feed cups, means for operating said stitch forming means, work supporting and guiding means arranged to grip the work in advance of. said feed cups,

2,751,866 13 14 a movable support for said Work supporting and guiding References Cited in the file of this patent means adapted to vary the elevation thereof in relation UNITED STATES PATENTS to said feed cups, yielding means normally urging said stitch finger and said movable support to present the same 9391543 Prazak 9 at predetermined elevations in relation to the feed cups, 5 1,496,820 Mafia June 10, 1924 and means operable at will for simultaneously moving 2343749 Hacklander June 9, 1936 said stitch finger and the support for said work supportgjg -N P '-1 8 d 'd' t d'fi t determin d el S lug an gul mg means 0 1 eren D 3 6V3 2632412 Cook Mar 24 1953 tions in relation to the feed cups in the course of operation of said stitch forming means, and adjustable means for 10 varying at least one of said predetermined elevations. 

